The Martingale system works like this: if you lose then you play double on your next bet. Because people bet different amounts, let’s use the word “unit” to describe the bet. So when you lose one unit, you bet two. If you win, you win a total of one unit. For the Martingale system, this holds true so long as you can continue doubling your bet. The problem lies in exponential growth, however. If a unit equals $10 dollars, and then you lose 7 times, it requires $1,270. Your 8th bet will be $1,280. So you will essentially be risking $2,550 to win $10. If you have played much blackjack, you know losing 8 in a row is not that unusual. So I came up with a variation to the Martingale system to tackle the problem.
I have worked as a dealer in a casino for 16 years. I can not tell you how many different systems I’ve seen people use. I’ve even seen mathematician’s use stupid systems. The first and foremost beneficial action you can do is to follow basic strategy. At a minimum, you should play extremely close to basic strategy. Here is what a basic strategy card looks like:
From http://www.online-casinos.com
*If you click the image, you should be able to print it out from their web page.
If you have done much research into blackjack then I’m sure you ran across card counting. Card counting is where you increase your bet when the deck is rich in 10′s and Ace’s. Blackjacks pay a unit and a half, so increasing your bet during high-count times, creates an advantage for the player. (Sometimes, the house calls counters advantage players) It should be noted though, unless you are willing to risk drastically higher stakes and do a lot of work to maintain an accurate count they do not raise your edge exceedingly.
I do not relish the notion of keeping up with the “count”, or increasing my bet by 10 times my original amount. When I designed my system I wanted something that did not force me to remember a collection of information, like card counting. I also wanted something that would not require an immense bankroll, like the Martingale system. So I designed something that is both economical and easy enough to remember while drinking. 
I’ve done remarkably well with this system. It allows me to drink, and I win more than I lose.
My system works on negative progression, that means that your bet increases when you lose. Unlike the Martingale system though, you only increase you bet one unit when you lose rather than doubling it. When you win, you decrease your bet by one. So if you decided you were going to use a unit of $10, then every time you lost you would add $10 to your last bet to get the amount of your current bet. Every time you win a bet, you subtract $10 from your last bet to get your current bet. That is the basis of the whole system: incremental negative progression.
There are only 3 exceptions to the above rule. This has to do with double downs, splits and Blackjacks.
1) If you win a double down it counts as 2 wins so subtract 2 units from your winning bet for your current bet. If you miss a double down add only 1 unit from your loss to get your current bet. Example: Your unit = $10. You currently have a $50 bet, double down, and win. Your next bet should be $30.
2) Splits work the same way as double downs. If you win 2 splits it counts as 2 wins, so subtract 2 units from your winning bet to get your current bet. If you win 4 splits it counts as 4 wins, so subtract 4 units from your winning bet to get your current bet. If you lose splits, only count half of the loses. So 2 loses means your current bet will be 1 unit higher. (Your choice when it is an odd number of loses to round up or down) Example: Your unit = $15. You currently have $120 bet, split twice, and win all 3. Your next bet should be $75.
3) When you get a blackjack it counts as 2 wins so subtract 2 units from it to get your current bet. Example: Your unit = $25. You hit a blackjack for $100. Your next bet should be $50.
Another Note: Combine the number of wins and subtract the number of losses in complex hands and use the number of wins. Example: Your unit = $10. You bet $70, have 4 splits and 2 double downs. Lets say you only lose one of the double downs, you have effectively won 2. (Lost 2 and won 4) Here is each hand in the example:
A.) DD, got 18, and won = 2 wins
B.) DD, got 13, and lost = 2 loses
C.) Got 19, and won = 1 win
D.) Got 20, and won = 1 win
With your bets changing every hand, the dealer is going to hate you. Even if you do not use this method, you should still tip. If this approach helps you, TIP! I’ve been asked many times, “What is [expected, normal or standard] tipping.”. There is not a fixed amount to give. The guidelines that I think you should use are these: 10 percent of your buy-in per hour, or 1 unit per hour if you are using my system. You will notice I did not say winning or losing. I did not even mention anything about tipping whenever you make a blackjack. That is because although I tend to believe that you should tip more when you are winning, I do not “blame” the dealer one way or the other. To me the dealer is just like a waiter. He just delivers my cards rather than my food. Regardless if the food is good or bad, I tip based on the service given in both cases.
I do not bet for the dealers, but some dealers prefer bets to hand-ins, so it is debatable. I do not tip rude dealers, or dealers who are bitchy or complaining the whole time I’m there. (I usually change tables, in any case) I do not think you should tip someone who does not interact with you at all.
If you truly want to be a winner, I have the “golden rule” for you: Set the amount you want to win, BEFORE YOU GO. I can not stress this enough. Get a number in your mind that you would be satisfied with before you leave the house. LEAVE when you achieve this goal regardless of where you are in the system. If your goal is to triple your buy-in and you have reached that goal: Leave. Do not let it bother you if you are not back down to one unit. The system will increase your bankroll even though your average bet slowly keeps getting higher. When it comes to winning, pay attention to your bankroll, not your current bet. I also would not recommend trying to collect more than triple your buy-in. It requires several hours, and the higher your goal the less likely it becomes that you will hit it.
Tags: advantage, Basic, blackjack, card, counting, gamble, gambling, martingale, negative progression, player, Stratagy, system, systems
Mark, I like your system. Is there some point where you stop or reduce your bet? If you have a bad streek, lets say you get lopsided and get to betting 15 units, it does not seem like a good risk to double down and loose , now you have to win an extra 15 hands to bet back even. the incremental gain does not seem justifiable. I understand the reason to reduce 2 when you win with a double down or a BJ and to count net winns on a split. makes sense. Just struggling with the maximum upper limit when you get ina bad grind.
Regardless of the system if you hit a bad grind you are going to lose. There is no system out there that can overcome 32 loses in a row. The house has an edge, and you will not get back down to your base bet. That’s why I go for no more than triple your buy-in. Double is more reasonable. Play a session, if you win leave, and if you lose leave. Keep up with it. I’ve done well with this system, but there is no guarantee you’ll have the same results.
I have done fairly well with your system, and really appreciate you sharing it! I have used a regular D’Alembert for several years, but your “Power Triangle” is much better! The guys at blackjackinfo.com think card counting is the end-all to gambling, and it has never worked for me!
Let me know if you have made and improvements…etc..any win goals…loss limits..etc
Thanks again for sharing
Ron
TWO BIG THUMBS UP!!
THANKS AGAIN!!!
I have been using this system online and at the local casino recently before googling and trying to come up with a name for it. I called it the “step-down negative progression”. It has also been successful for me.
The mods I do to it is using the blackjack machines with the video dealer that way no worrying about tipping and having all rules spelled out: ie surrender, double after split, split any pair, etc… Also playing 3 hands at a time help smooth out the variance. If I win 2 out of 3 hands no increase, lose 2 out of 3 and begin the progression. A push, 1 win, 1 loss = rebet last amount.
Mark: At what point do you stop increasing your bet. I tried this system for fun and made it up to betting 12 units at $10 per unit. I was down $1,000 in no time flat.
Thanks
Brad I only lose the amount I wanted to play. If your base unit is $10 then $210 should be base bankroll. When you lose that leave, and come back another day. If you double it, leave and come back another day. You can’t force the cards to do what you want them to do.